Buying Tips & Checklist

Everything to check before you buy in Porirua, Kāpiti, Tawa, Lower Hutt, Upper Hutt or Wellington.

7

Things to check before you sign

4

Property title types in NZ

10

Working days for a standard LIM

Buying a property is one of the biggest financial decisions you'll make. Work through the checklist below in order — each one builds on the last — then use the reference guides further down whenever a term comes up that you're not 100% sure on.

The checklist

Tap each step to expand it.

01 Have your finances in order early +

Meet with your chosen lender or mortgage adviser early in your search to get pre-approval (also called approval in principle) and find out how much you can borrow. This way you'll be ready to act as soon as you find the right property, with your lender able to move quickly to final loan approval once you meet all the necessary criteria.

02 Check if KiwiSaver can help your deposit +

If you've been a KiwiSaver member for at least three years and this is your first home, you can withdraw your full balance minus a compulsory $1,000, with no cap on the amount. You may also qualify for the Kāinga Ora First Home Loan, which allows a deposit as low as 5% instead of the standard 20%. (Note: the separate First Home Grant cash payment was discontinued in May 2024 and is no longer available.)

Contact your KiwiSaver provider once you have a signed sale and purchase agreement — processing typically takes 10–15 working days, so start early.

03 Engage a lawyer or conveyancer +

To handle the legal work for your purchase you'll need a solicitor or a registered conveyancer. A solicitor is often recommended where a contract isn't straightforward or is likely to involve complex legal issues; a conveyancer specialises in property transactions and is well suited to most standard purchases. Get them involved before you sign anything — not after.

04 Check the property's title type +

New Zealand has four main types of property title — freehold, leasehold, unit title, and cross-lease — and each comes with different rights and obligations. Your lawyer or conveyancer should review the record of title (also called the certificate of title) with you before you commit. Jump to the full title guide ↓

05 Order a LIM report and building inspection +

A Land Information Memorandum (LIM) is a council-issued report showing building consents, code compliance, rates, and any natural hazard notations — order yours from the local council, allowing around 10 working days. Alongside this, a building inspection checks the physical condition of the property, including piles, roof, plumbing and wiring, and can flag unconsented work. Jump to the full LIM & building report guide ↓

06 Get a registered valuation if you're borrowing over 80% +

Online estimates and council rating valuations are a starting point, but they don't reflect true market value. If you're borrowing with less than a 20% deposit, your bank may require a registered valuation, which gives a more accurate figure based on recent comparable sales, construction quality, and the property's actual features.

07 Have your deposit ready +

If you're buying at auction, there are no conditions — you'll need to pay your deposit on the day to secure the purchase. If you're buying by private treaty, the deposit is generally paid once the agreement becomes unconditional. Either way, have it organised several days in advance to avoid complications.

Reference Guide

The four types of property title in New Zealand.

How you hold a property affects what you can do with it, what it costs you long-term, and how easily you can sell it later.

Most common

Freehold (fee simple)

You own the land and buildings outright. The simplest, most flexible form of ownership — most standalone houses are freehold.

Ground rent applies

Leasehold

You own the buildings but lease the land for a fixed term, paying ground rent that can be reviewed and increased over time.

Common in apartments

Unit title

You own your unit outright and share common areas — driveways, gardens, lifts — through a body corporate that sets rules and levies.

Distinctly NZ

Cross-lease

You co-own the freehold land with neighbours and lease your specific dwelling, per a "flats plan" registered on the title.

Cross-lease dates back to 1960s and 1970s subdivisions. Exterior alterations typically need consent from other cross-lease owners, so check the flats plan matches what's actually built on site — unauthorised changes are a common issue on older cross-lease properties.

What's inside a LIM report?

A Land Information Memorandum is issued by the local council and pulls together everything they hold on file about a property.

Building consents & sign-offs

Zoning & resource consents

Natural hazard notations

Rates & council orders

A LIM won't tell you whether the house is structurally sound or whether the price is fair — that's what a building inspection and your own research are for. If you're buying at auction, there are no conditions, so order your LIM and building inspection well before auction day, not after.

Reference Guide

How to actually read a building report.

A building report is one of the most valuable documents you'll receive as a buyer — but it's also one of the most commonly misread. Here's how to get real signal out of it, rather than just a long list of things to worry about.

Judge the property against its own era, not today's building code

A home built in the 1950s, 60s or 70s was built to the standards of its time, not the New Zealand Building Code as it stands today. It's completely normal for an older property to fall short of current code in areas like insulation, wiring capacity, or bathroom ventilation — that's expected wear and reasonable ageing, not necessarily a defect. The real question isn't "does this meet 2026 standards?" but "is it sound, safe, and consistent with a property of its age?"

Learn to read "could" and "may" for what they are

Building inspectors write in cautious, qualifying language — "could indicate," "may suggest," "recommend further investigation" — because they're flagging a possibility to look into, not confirming a fault exists. This is standard professional practice, and it protects both you and the inspector.

If something in the report reads as concerning but is phrased this way, the right next step is to ask a follow-up question or get a specialist opinion — not to assume the worst. Treat "could" as "check this," not "this is broken."

No two reports — or properties — are the same

Different inspectors have different reporting styles. Some list every scuff, hairline crack and cosmetic mark alongside the structural findings; others are more selective. A long report isn't automatically a bad property, and a short one isn't automatically a clean bill of health — it often just reflects how thorough and detail-oriented that particular inspector's format is.

A simple way to prioritise what you read:

Read these first

The major items

The expensive, structural, hard-to-fix things:

Roof · Cladding & weathertightness · Foundations & piles · Plumbing & drainage · Wiring & switchboard · Windows & joinery

Read these second

The minor items

Everyday wear and cosmetic notes:

Scuffed paint · Sticking doors · Worn carpet · Minor cracks in linings · Ageing fixtures · Cosmetic wear

Work through the major items first — these are what genuinely affect the property's value and your ongoing costs. Once you have a clear picture there, come back to the minor items and note them as a to-do list rather than a red flag list. Breaking the report down this way stops you from getting overwhelmed by a long document, and helps you secure a property you love with a clear, prioritised plan for what to attend to and when.

Frequently asked questions

Tap a question to expand it.

What are the main steps in buying a property in New Zealand? +

The key steps are: getting mortgage pre-approval early, checking whether KiwiSaver or the First Home Loan can help your deposit, engaging a lawyer or conveyancer, checking the property's title, ordering a LIM report and building inspection, arranging a registered valuation if needed, and having your deposit ready before you commit. One Agency Select Realty guides buyers through every step of this process across Porirua, Kāpiti, Tawa, Lower Hutt, Upper Hutt and the wider Wellington region.

Can I use my KiwiSaver to buy my first home? +

Yes, if you've been a KiwiSaver member for at least three years and it's your first home, you can withdraw your full balance minus a compulsory $1,000. You may also be eligible for the Kāinga Ora First Home Loan, which allows a deposit as low as 5%. Contact your KiwiSaver provider once you have a signed sale and purchase agreement, and allow 10–15 working days for processing. Note that the separate First Home Grant cash payment was discontinued in May 2024 and is no longer available — the KiwiSaver withdrawal and First Home Loan are the current live options.

What's the difference between freehold, leasehold, unit title and cross-lease? +

Freehold (fee simple) means you own the land and buildings outright. Leasehold means you own the buildings but lease the land, paying ground rent. Unit title means you own your unit and share common areas through a body corporate. Cross-lease means you co-own the land with your neighbours and hold a long-term lease over your specific dwelling. Freehold is the most common and generally the most straightforward for buyers.

What is a LIM report and do I need one? +

A LIM (Land Information Memorandum) is a council-issued report showing building consents, code compliance, zoning, natural hazard notations and rates information for a property. Yes — it's considered essential due diligence for any New Zealand property purchase, and is especially important at auction, where there are no conditions to protect you afterwards.

Does "could" or "may" in a building report mean something is actually wrong? +

Not necessarily. Inspectors use qualifying language like "could indicate" or "may suggest" to flag something worth investigating further, not to confirm a fault. If a report reads as concerning but uses this kind of language, the right next step is to ask a follow-up question or get a specialist opinion, rather than assuming the worst. Treat it as a prompt to look closer, not a confirmed defect.

When do I need to pay my deposit? +

If buying at auction, your deposit is due on the day, immediately after the hammer falls. If buying by private treaty, the deposit is typically paid once the agreement becomes unconditional. Have your deposit organised several days in advance either way.

Should I engage a lawyer or a conveyancer? +

Either can handle a standard residential purchase. A solicitor is generally recommended where the contract is complex or likely to involve legal disputes; a registered conveyancer specialises in property transactions and is well suited to most straightforward purchases.

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